Cycling for exercise has become more popular in Hanoi. Many people cycle along Thanh Nien street and around West Lake in the early mornings and late afternoons. (Photo: Van Ngan)

Before the first light of dawn, Hanoi has already begun the new day. Loudspeakers in parks and residential areas broadcast morning aerobic routines, there’s a murmur of cheerful chatter, and the rhythmic footsteps of joggers awaken the heartbeat of the capital city.

Le Thu Thuy, a resident of Hanoi, said morning runs in the park have been part of her routine for years. To her, Hanoi in the early hours has a special beauty.

“I've kept up my morning exercise routine for many years now. I get up early to avoid the heat, stay healthy, and meet friends. There's something so peaceful yet full of life about Hanoi in the morning,” said Thuy.

As the first rays of sunlight peek over the rooftops, Hanoi is already awake. Drivers are honking their horns, street vendors are calling out their wares, and shopkeepers are opening their doors.

Sarah, an American who has lived in Hanoi for years, recalled, “What I remember about living in Hanoi is that the day and night were so different. In the morning and in the afternoon and some parts of the city like the old quarter, they were so different from each other. You would be in one street which would be filled with vendors and shops selling things on the on the sidewalk or inside their stores. Then maybe you'd go back in 4 hours, it would be different vendors. The stores would have changed something. Maybe a store would have opened. A store would have closed. It was like a different place.”

“So I would always get confused on my bike in the old quarter because I couldn't keep straight where I had been, where I hadn't been yet. At night things got so quiet, quieter than any big city that I've been to. It was so peaceful. I used to ride my bike down the street past the the mausoleum and it was empty of cars. I feel very safe. It was beautiful.”

As the sun climbs higher, Hanoi gains momentum. Eateries from upscale restaurants to sidewalk food stalls are packed with people. The aroma of bun cha (grilled pork noodles), pho (noodle soup), and bun rieu (crab noodle soup) floats through the air along with the animated voices of the diners.

Hou Xiang Yu, a tourist from China, said that he really enjoys the vibe here, especially the street food at lunchtime.

“It’s so noisy and exciting. Even during the hottest hours, Hanoi is bustling. From fancy restaurants to street stalls serving grilled beef noodles and crab noodle soup, the laughter and chatter of people create a lively picture of Hanoi life,” said Yu.

The food area around Ta Hien-Luong Ngoc Quyen streets is always crowded with customers after dark. (Photo: H.La)

In late afternoon, Hanoi becomes even livelier. After the school bells ring, students pour into the streets. Buses honk at street vendors weaving through the busy traffic.

As night falls, the city transforms. Streets like Ta Hien, Hang Buom, and the pedestrian area around Hoan Kiem Lake light up with the glow of neon signs and you feel the thump of music from bars and cafés. Hanoi’s nightlife rivals that of any city in the world.

Hou said Hanoi after dark is even more captivating: “The nightlife in Hanoi is amazing,” said Yu, adding, “I really enjoy the night markets, the lights, and the city’s vitality. When the lights are turned on, Hanoi becomes a city that never sleeps. Ta Hien, Hang Bac street, and the walking streets around Hoan Kiem Lake burst into life with music, bars, and people. It’s full of energy and, honestly, I think Hanoi can stand shoulder to shoulder with any other city in the world.”

Beyond the lively nightlife, Hanoi also offers unique after-dark tours. The “Sacred Night” tour of Hoa Lo prison and the “Bell of Tran Vu” night tour soon to launch in August offer visitors to the city new ways to explore the city after sunset.

Ninh Quang Truong, director of the “Bell of Tran Vu” tour, said, “We created the night tour ‘Bell of Tran Vu to give Hanoi another exciting nighttime experience and help develop the city’s night-time economy. The tour includes two parts – a performance and some hands-on experiential activities.”

Hanoi at night isn’t just noise and excitement. There’s also the rustle of leaves on empty streets, the soft glow of streetlamps casting the shadows of street cleaners, and the solemn tolling of church bells.