 Nguyen Thi Nga spends significant time researching and restoring traditional patterns and designs of Vietnam’s royal costumes. (Photo courtesy of Nguyen Thi Nga) |
“When I studied fashion design, I learned about the history of world fashion, which led me to wonder, ‘What is the history of Vietnamese clothing?’ At the time, I only knew about the ao dai (traditional long dress). Through films and entertainment, I couldn’t clearly identify these garments, I only knew they were traditional or ancient. I had very little access to information about which periods they came from, what they represented, or who wore them. That’s why I decided to study traditional costumes from their origins in order to develop and creatively build on them,” Nguyen Thi Nga talked to us about her journey of studying and restoring traditional Vietnamese costumes across historical periods.
Since her university years, Nga has had a special interest in Vietnamese traditional clothing, especially ancient patterns and designs from royal court attire. In 2022, she and several friends founded Van Thien Y, a fashion company specializing in restoring traditional Vietnamese costumes.
“We came together as a team to share our interests and spread our passion. When designing garments, we always incorporate cultural elements such as traditional patterns and ethnic motifs,” said Nga.
 The Van Thien Y team takes part in the “Vietnam National Day” art program at Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan, September 2025. (Photo courtesy of Nguyen Thi Nga) |
For traditional costumes, historical accuracy is the top priority. One of the biggest challenges in reconstructing these garments is the scarcity of available sources. Studying ancient texts alone is not sufficient; extensive fieldwork is required. For some dynasties, very little documentation has been preserved, so Nga and her team must carefully examine such things as statues and paintings to determine the historical context.
Creating a complete traditional costume involves five stages: weaving the fabric, dyeing, drying, designing, and tailoring. The material must be silk, typically raw or handwoven with a certain stiffness, to enhance the wearer’s posture and convey a sense of formality.
“One of our most demanding projects was recreating Princess Trinh Thi Ngoc Co’s costume, based on the attire depicted in her statue at But Thap pagoda in Bac Ninh province. During the development of the sample garments, we had to make multiple adjustments. Drawing on her experience, Nga was able to identify the most accurate and appropriate silhouette, which then served as the basis for our cutting and tailoring specifications,” said Nguyen Van Hieu, Head of the Product Research and Development Department of Van Thien Y.
 (Photo courtesy of Nguyen Thi Nga) |
Van Thien Y has achieved notable success. Its creations have appeared at various cultural events such as the Hanoi Creative Design Festival 2023 and the cultural diplomacy program “Vietnam Days Abroad 2023” held in France, Japan, and South Africa. The brand also took part for the first time in a Vietnamese traditional costume parade at Expo Osaka 2025 in Japan.
“Expo Osaka was the largest international event Van Thien Y has ever taken part in. Nga led the team, from developing the initial concept to presenting the collection in Japan. Her passion and creativity inspired and motivated all of us. Our performance told a story rooted in Vietnamese history and culture, which drew significant audience interest,” Ngo Quynh Giao, Head of Communications and Digital Content at Van Thien Y, said.
When stories of Vietnamese culture are conveyed by costume designers and other artisans, national identity is spread and Vietnam’s cultural industry grows.